A demonstration in Amman

Saturday I ran into this with my friend as we came onto Zarhan street, after having visited Silsal, one of my favourite shops in Amman.

When we moved to Jordan 2 years ago, demonstrations were simply not permitted. Today is another matter. That is one of the things that has changed in Amman after the Arab Spring of last year. I don't really know what the demonstration were for or against - but if I should guess probably for the King.

Now we have demonstrations practically every thursday at the 4th circle. 

1st IWAA meeting

The first International Women's Association Amman meeting took place last thursday and was clearly a success.

Over 100 hundred ladies turned up, many nationalities, including British, American, but also Indian and Norwegian, Tanzanian or Jordanian. After a cup of coffee or 2 and some pastries, we had a welcome speech by the founder.

Then Jane Taylor, the famous writer and photographer, made a presentation about her work here in Jordan. It was very interesting as she has pictures from the mid-80s and she was showing how archaeological sites, as Petra or Jerash, have evolved and changed over the past 25 years. She has published 5 books about Jordan - they are incredible material, they give another dimension and help to understand Jordan. I bought one of her books on Petra - it's a fab read and her photographies are really beautiful.

The next meeting will be held on 1st of March at the Sheraton - 10 am. The membership fees are still to be discussed so I will let you know when I know about it. There will also be a certain number of activities to which members will be able to sign up, for a fee as well.

The website is not yet up and running, but here are the contact details for the association:
email: Iwaamman@yahoo.com
Facebook page: IWAAmman
twitter: #IWAAmman

Queen Alia Airport: Top 10 worst airports

I was not even half surprised when I read this article about the world's 10 worse airports and that Amman International Airport was also on the list.

The article talks about a few things, including the un-cleanliness of the toilets. I haven't even tried the toilets and it's still one of the worse airports I have been through. The current terminals are ugly and dark. A new terminal is in construction - by ADP (Aeroport de Paris), let's hope they make a better job than with Charles-de-Gaule, Paris' main international airport... funny enough that airport is also to be found on "the list".

Well arriving to Amman is kind of ok. You spent some time queuing, but then you do that everywhere. You queue for the visa (20JD), you queue for the passport control. When you are done with that you enter a horrible lounge to pick up your luggage. Porters are easy to find. One luggage scan and you are allowed out of the place. However,  if your luggage is not there, then the fun starts, in a country where nobody knows how to queue. It happened to me once when I came on a connecting flight over Istanbul, with a very tired then under-one-year old Bibs. Not funny. There was about 100 people squeezed into a little space behind one of the belts trying to get the attention of one of the 2 agents sitting behind a counter... who didn't speak english. So imagine me, Bibs in a stroller, climbing over bags and people to get into this tiny space and trying to explain to the guy that I actually don't have a clue what my luggage looks like: Black or grey? the brand? my name on there? Yes maybe. Surprisingly enough it only took 2 days for the luggages to appear again.

But the true side of Queen Alia Airport, you see it when you leave Jordan. Once you have demonstrated to the customs guy that you are willingly walking into the airport (by showing him the flight tickets and passport), you need to have your luggage scanned. 2 or 3 belts and lots of people and lots of luggage: a few tourists, but mainly Jordanian or people from the gulf who again have no idea what queuing means. They arrive with 10 supersize luggages and just jump the queue. I don't know if they actually don't understand the concept of queueing or they just think you won't realise. I tell you it takes time and patience. A lot of patience and a bit of shoulder fighting. The ladies lane is a bit better but really not much. So through with all your luggage, your are trying to get to it. Remember the guy who jumped the queue with his 10 supersize pieces of luggage? well he is nowhere to be seen but all the suitcases are actually blocking the belt. Finally, you manage to get to the check-in counter.

Then you have to queue again: for the passport control. You have those who are standing nicely in the lanes, having no choice really and then those who are trying to discuss their way through the diplomatic lane (even though they are not much more of a diplomate than I am). It takes a good 20 minutes. They check that you haven't over stayed your visa (if you have, don't worry they will let you out - you just need to pay 1.5JD /day). Once you are done, you think it's over.

You arrive to the duty free shop which is one of the most boring ones i have been in, unless you are after really cheap cigarettes or dates. Then you need to find a counter at which you can actually pay - some are open but have no change, some are open but the cashier is busy arguing about this or that with a colleague. You can also get magazines and a little food and that's it.

Then you need to find the gate. You thought the scanning was over and done with! But no, you need to scan all the hand luggage, one more time. Once you are through there is no coming back, and beware there is not a shop, you can't even get a bottle of water. And it's depressing. Dark and gloomy with even lower ceilings - or so it feels.

A little bit more "non"-queueing and finally you are in that plane and you are happy, because it takes you away from Amman Airport.

I am maybe exaggerating a bit, but not much! There are so many things in Amman more enjoyable than the airport.  

A little post about medical

So came then day when I got mastitis. Am breastfeeding Bobsy and it just came out of the blue! For those who don't know what mastitis is, it's a breast infection and to say it hurts is an understatement. I am not the kind of person who runs to the doc because of a cough or a fever - but this time there was simply no way around it. And let's say it as it is: as long as you pay (or your insurance does) there is no problem and they are very thorough.

There is a street between 4th and 3rd circles: it's a doctor's street. Only doctors, hospitals, clinics of all kinds. and it's a long street! So I got an appointment with a general physician and off I went to the dreaded doctor. There is a reason why I don't go to doctors: I don't like them. I don't like them and their white overall. He was ok though - there was only a doctor part. Either he forgot the white thing at home or he doesn't like it either.

And this is what happens when you go private here: the doctor checks on you and then picks up the phone to his very good acquaintance who happens to be the head of the x-ray department of the hospital within walking distance. I get to the hospital, find the x-ray department and the receptionist that goes with it, wait for a little while and get to register, pay 30JD at the "accounting department", also called a cashier, and the head of the x-ray department is already waiting for me.

All in all I spent maybe 30 minutes at the hospital and that includes a good 5 minutes in finding the right department, at least 5 minutes to pay at the cashier and 10 minutes at the pharmacy to get the antibiotics. And this is good, because if there is one thing I dislike even more than doctors: it's hospitals. And dentists, but that's another story.

I have had a couple of other experiences with hospitals here in Jordan and it has been like that: very effective really. That is if you pay and go to the right doctors. Of course. I wonder how long one should wait in Europe to get an x-ray done at a hospital.

They can get a little overzealous as well: the doctor wanted me to get intravenous antibiotics. I told him that I was sure the oral ones were fine!

Another example is the kids' paediatrician. When I went to the hospital to give birth I was asked who my paediatrician was. I gave the name and I was so surprised when I saw her 2 hours after Bobsy was born for a complete check up. If you don't have one, of course the hospital do the check ups, but otherwise your own one comes. She came twice in 24 hours (because I am a bit hardcore and left the hospital the day after) - so she came the next day just to see him. Of course you pay for all this, but it's not that expensive. I think we paid her 70JD for both visits and the second visit was friday morning, so technically her weekend day. I have her mobile number and can call her 24/7. That kind of service simply does not exist in Europe in my experience, even if you pay for it.

Jordan is trying to become (or is becoming?) a medical tourism destination and I think it probably has the best medical in the region. People are coming from neighbouring countries to Jordan. The prices are very competitive compared to Europe and the service really much much better. 

IWAA - International Women's Association Amman

The IWAA, The International Women's Association Amman will hold its first meeting at the Sheraton Hotel (5th Circle) on thursday 2nd February at 10am and after that on every first thursday of the month.

"The aim of the IWAA is to provide a connection point for new comers to the city with emphasis on those ladies that may only be here for a short time, to enable them to integrate into their new lives as quickly as possible, through meeting people, being able to access information and join established groups and activities.  IWAA meetings will be on every first Thursday of the month, and will provide a venue for women to meet and network, connecting with friends new and old, and join activities and events that they find interesting" says Sue, the founder of IWAA. The Facebook page is up an running already, IWAA Facebook.

The first guest speaker is Jane Taylor, famous photographer and writer. Jane has lived in Jordan since 1989 and has recently published her 5th book on Jordan: "Beyond the Jordan".

I am really excited about this association. I found it a bit difficult to find my way around town when I first arrived in Amman and if it hadn't been for the Danish Embassy and one of its staff I wouldn't have settled in so fast or so well: that's why I created this blog to start with - after that I discovered that I actually liked blogging, but that's something else... So yes very excited indeed, because I feel there is a real need for this association. 

IWAA   International Women’s Association Amman

The International Women’s Association Amman cordially invites you to the first monthly meeting on

Thursday 2nd February 2012 The Sheraton Hotel from 10am

 Guest Speaker:  Jane Taylor 

 "Flying on the wings of the wind... dancing on the earth". 

2 decade master plan for Petra rewarded

In today's JT you can read about the Pierre l'Enfant International Planning award which this year has gone to the strategic master plan for Petra.

The Sanctuary

The Pierre l'Enfant International Planning award is an award that recognises planning practices and efforts (outside the US) to promote communities of lasting value. Read more about it on APA's (American Planning Association) website. In Petra's case it has been awarded "to the Petra strategic plan in recognition of its balancing the need for the preservation of important archaeological resources with the need for increased tourism and economic growth" (JT).


Petra is a UNESCO archaeological site and has seen in the past years a was-to-be-expected but unplanned  for rise in tourist visits. Such an exterior support is in my opinion a great and very welcomed help for Jordan. Tourism in Jordan represents today one of the economy's major components and most of the sites in Jordan are facing big challenges, including environmental degradation,  limited water availability and unplanned tourism growth, to name a few. This is clearly putting a site as Petra at risk.

Notice the horse/donkey stables in the back

The Jordanian government has established the Petra Development and Tourism Regional Authority, this is in charge over the region as well as the entire archaeological site. A multidisciplinary team had been created and they have received input from local leaders and groups in order to create the mentioned master plan. This plan will be implemented over the next 2 decades and will help with "attracting investment, developing infrastructure, diversifying and enhancing tourism services and facilities..." (Mohammad Farajat in the JT).

In 2010, Petra welcomed a little short of 1 Million visitors according to this article from the Jordan Tourism Board website, that's a 68% increase to 2009. I wasn't able to find official figures for 2011, maybe because the figures show a decline in tourists because of the Arab Spring. In the coming years the number of visitors to Petra will continue to rise - even with the very expensive entrance fee of 50JD/person for 1 day - so investments and environmental management is a big must for the site and for Jordan. Petra, and it's amazing beauty, need to be protected and fast.

The Siq - the walk down to the Sanctuary

The award will be handed out in April during the APA's national conference and later the master plan will be featured in their magazine. 

How is it going in Jordan?

Everyday or so I get an e-mail from back home, family, friends, friends of parents asking how things are in Jordan? Well as the "Arabic Spring" and its revolutions continue to sweep over the Middle East, I thought I would just reassure everybody, Jordan is quiet. Yes, there are problems in Jordan: the country is not escaping the economic problems, inflation is hitting hard, the income gap in between rich and poor is growing, the unemployment rate reaches 12% and let's not forget the public deficit which has never been so high. We have had protests every Friday for the past month or so, mainly in Amman.

Compared with Ben Ali or Mubarak, the street is not asking for the King to go. What they want is a change of Prime Minister (though he had only been here a few months), freer elections and parliamentary reforms. Well the sacking of the Prime Minister they got it: our King dismissed Rifai and his cabinet in the beginning of February. He was replaced by Al-Bakhit, who is seen as stable, but also conservative figure. Al-Bakhit is the man that came in after the 2005 deadly hotel bombings, he was also very much involved in the peace treaty with Israel. Will he be able to bring the reforms need in Jordan for things to become better? I don't know but the guy has a huge task ahead of him. Is the stability of Jordan on his shoulders? Maybe, probably. Al-Bakhit is Jordanian, as opposed to two thirds of the Jordanian population who are Palestinian. Without classifying anybody I think that the first group tends to be better off than the second.
The King certainly "bought time" when he replaced the PM but all the reforms that are needed will take a long, long time to implement and it will take even more time to see some results. For me one of the biggest problems is corruption, it cripples the country: from the elections to the decisions as to where money needs to be spend and for whom. Let's hope that Al-Bakhit and his cabinet will be able to stay far away from corruption.

The unrests are far to be over in the Middle East: yesterday it was Tunisia and Egypt, today Libya, Yemen or Bahrain and tomorrow? well only the future will say. For all these countries it is just the start. In the countries where the people got what they wanted: they need to learn about democracy, and that's not an easy task. How long did it take France after 1789? A century? more? Ok that's far away in history. What about the former east block in Europe? some states are still fighting high unemployment rates, low salaries and corruption - the older generation would argue that "under the old regime" at least they had a job and food on the table. I guess what I am trying to say is that unfortunately it's not because Ben Ali or Mubarak are gone that all his perfect - far from it. These populations will need a lot of time, a lot of support to get to where they want and it'll be a bumpy ride. The whole political system needs to be constructed - they have no real opposition, no political programs, not many political leaders.

Back to Jordan. Will the protests continue - it is possible, though I believe they will remain peaceful. I think it is more a crisis of confidence in between the people and the power, than a need of radical change. I believe it all depends on the speed with which al Bakhit and King Abdullah II will take steps toward reforms.  But I want to stress, that I feel that Jordan is not like the other countries in the region, nor can you compare the King to other rulers in the area.

I thought this was an interesting article: Jordanian demand change - just don't touch the King. 

2011: International year of forests? Sadly not in Jordan?

The United Nation has declared 2011 the International year of forests.

North of Amman is Ajloun Forest, home to more than 100 plant species, animals and birds. A deforestation program has just started in a part of the forest in order to built a military academy. I wonder how much clear land there is in Jordan? What is the need to actually destroy the forest so that we can get some more clear land? Well apparently there is 1% of forested land in Jordan.

In one of the most water deprived countries of the world, I think it is nothing less than a scandal.

A petition is currently being circulated on the net, to be presented tomorrow to parliament - you can show your support and sign it here. This is also a link to much more information about this case.

Visit to Umm Ar-Rasas

I have been quiet this last month but it doesn't mean that I haven't been doing stuff. Still so much to see in Jordan. I started off the new year with a visit to Umm Ar-Rasas (also known as Um Er-Rasas, Kastrom Mefa'a). The site is located 30 kilometres south-east of Madaba and it makes it a perfect afternoon trip from Amman. We had lunch at Haret Jdoudna in Madaba and then continued to Umm Ar-Rasas. I wrote about that restaurant a year ago, after our first visit to Madaba, and their website was under construction... well it still is! But the food is still great, their hummus is yummy, my favourite is their lamb sausages in a tomato sauce, delicious.

Umm Ar-Rasas has been a world heritage site since 2004 - it started as a Roman garnisson, became a town in the 5th century. Most of the site has not (yet?) been excavated - the highlight is definitely one of the 16 discovered churches: Saint Stephens Church (AD 785) with its very well preserved mosaics.

St Stephens Church

It is easy to see that it was a big church, with several chapels. As I said the mosaics are very well preserved: the ones on the right underneath show the cities of the region (Palestine, Jordan or Egypt) written in Greek script.

In the top right corner, you can see an Icon, the only one there I believe

This section shows: Kastrom Mefa'a, Philadelphia (Amman) and Madaba.

Underneath a couple of pictures from the Church of the Lions - called so because of the mosaics found. It is not possible to see the mosaics as they are covered by plastic and sand for protection. I can only guess that this is a temporary solution until a more suitable one is found.

Like all sites in Jordan, there wasn't much information available, so do some research before you go if you want to enjoy it fully. There is a visitor centre but apart from the tourist police, everything was closed. We didn't pay an entrance fee, but had the pleasure of a escort by one of the police officers, who didn't speak much English, we still gave him a tip at the end of the tour. If you have a stroller it is possible to walk around with it on the major track. 

Some more pictures...

One year in Amman!

Waow!, as Bibs would say. One year already, time has just disappeared. A year ago, we were packing the last pieces of luggage and preparing our flight to an unknown country.

I took a little bit of time to get used to this new and a bit strange city, learning to drive around - can't say without getting lost because it still happens - finding an apartment and settling in. But then one day I woke up, only to realise that I actually thought about Amman as "home" - as much as London, Geneva or Paris before.

After a year what are the things that I like about being in Amman? no doubt I like being here...

1. number 1 has to go to the British club - not because I am a member or go their often - but because it is through the British Club that I have met my friends and Bibs' hers.

2. the weather - ok not the best this evening, looks like it's going to rain (but we need it desperately) or maybe there is a sandstorm on the way - but let's be honest, I don't have much to complain about on the weather side - love the sun.

3. the kindness of the Jordanian people - ok some are a bit piss-takers - excuse my French, but others are really helpful and nice.

4. the things you only do/have as an expat: massage at home, for example, or having a (more or less full time) housekeeper, or our apartment building's harris.

5. the historical / biblical sites to visit in Jordan - there is always, something, somewhere to visit (not only Petra or Jerash).

6. ice cream at Gerard's (am writing a post about those ice creams!).

7. hearing small birdies as I wake up in the morning, not something you would have in a large city in Europe.

8. walking around in Sweifieh - I just love that area - all the small shops, my favorite sharwama, Juicebangbang, the only bubble-tea tea-house in Amman and of course Istiklal (stationary and toy shop).

9. local fruit and veg, that costs absolutely nothing (as opposed to imported papaya for example @ JD10 the kilo!!).

10. last, but certainly not the least important, I can stay at home with my gorgeous Bibs and watch her grow every day.

Not everything is perfect when you live in Amman:
- Absolute rip off when you go to Mothercare or ELC and buy something imported
- The fact that you can never be sure you can get something in the supermarket: it is not because there has been a produce for weeks that it will be there today... like Tropicana fresh juice or my usual yogurt...
- probably what disturbs me the most: this is a man's world and sometimes you can feel looled down at as a woman.
- ha nearly forgot, traffic on Thursday afternoon - horrid.

But hey, no world is perfect - and Amman is a nice city to live in. Happy we are here for another year - so many things to still to discover.

Saved dolmen field in Jordan - a new tourism attraction for 2011

For at least the past 2 years a Dolmen field near Damiyah, a village located north of Salt, in the Jordan Valley, has been on the World Monuments Watch list. According to an article in the Jordan Times of today, the site has been saved from destruction. A new archaeological site has been created, the DoA (Department of Antiquities) has made a deal with the mining company exploiting the area and a piece of land has been protected. It means that some of the dolmen will have to be moved to that specific site.

Pictures from the World Monument Site 

The dolmen site should open sometime next year to the public. This is great as it adds one more interesting site to visit to Jordan's already quite extensive list. Dolmens are from the Early Bronze age (3600-3000 BC) and some experts say they could be even older, from the Chalcolithic era (that's 4500-3500 BC). There are around 300 dolmens on site, so it should become an interesting park to visit. This is one of the things I particularly enjoy about Jordan: there are so many things to look at from so many different times.

The other thing that is nice to notice is that there are no other sites currently on the watch list.

Crafts @ the 2nd circle

Today I went to visit 2 different shops, one very exciting, the other a bit less. They are located not far from each other just next to the Intercontinental hotel and behind Reems, our famous sharwama stand at the second circle.

The first one, the "exciting one" is Alaydi, the Jordan Craft Development Centre. It is hidden in a private villa.

So what do they sell? Rugs and carpets, a great display of old bedouin rugs, kilims and cushions. There is jewellery, embroidery, pottery and much more. You will find small souvenirs and furniture. I really fell for this place, it's great. My friend who recommended it, asked me if I needed to spend money and that it shouldn't be any problem as they accept Visa! I did buy a few things, including some last Christmas decorations. It is well worth a visit.

The other shop, much smaller, is located a bit further down the road. It is called Alburgan.

You will find some nice things here as well, most decorations, cushions...

More tourists to Jordan with Easyjet

As of end of March 2011 it will be a bit cheaper to fly from Amman to London (and vice versa) as Easyjet is opening a new route to Amman. I find that quite exciting. Not that I am a big fan of Easyjet, but more because it should make RJ and BMI lower their rates as well, and that's great news!

A return trip from London will apparently start at £106 inc taxes (according to this website) - the tickets should be going on sale today but I can't find the route on easyjet's website. It's a huge difference with the £500 + it costs on the 2 other airlines operating on this route.

Apart from the obvious advantage for little me, it is fantastic for Jordan - it will help boosts tourism even more. Every month there are reports in the papers about the rise in tourist visits to our little Kingdom, the construction of a new terminal and the opening of such routes by Easyjet can only be good news for Jordan.

Now that means as well, that the authorities need to step up to it. Some of our tourism site are quite nice in terms of orientation - like the Citadel for example. But others like Petra have tons of work to do to greet more visitors. Some sites have been bumping up their prices these lasts months, it's the case of Petra or the Baptism site, but these sites also lack of infrastructure and serious money needs to be invested.

After the sand and the snow, Amman is clean again?!

I think the entrance to my building is cleaner that court yard of Buckingham Palace, and I am sure Queen Elisabeth II likes her environment to be spotless.

I know, snow makes things look dirty when it disappears - but this for me is beyond believe. As I took a cab this morning in my street, I realised that all the Harris' have been very busy cleaning, not only the entrances to the building and houses, but also the pavements, there is water absolutely everywhere.

Then as I change neighbourhood, I realise that shops, fast-food restaurants are doing the same. So everybody is praying and crying out for rain. And when it comes we use the water to clean the streets and the cars with? This is something I just cannot understand. There is really a huge education problem here. Or do people simply not care? Is it more important that the city is clean after a snowy day or that those living in areas where there are water shortages actually have some water?

Water preservation needs to be built into people's livestyle. The government, but also schools need to step in for kids to understand how important water is. For the parents and the older generations I fear it is too late: what I see in the streets around here show that to me.

Back in Amman 2: Karak Castle

To get to Karak you can take the Dead sea highway or the King's highway (through Wadi Mujib) where the scenery is much more exciting, but it would be a bit too long for Bibs - she tends to get very bored in the car. So we took the Desert highway, the fastest way to get there. We managed to find Karak and the castle without getting lost, not thanks to the signs though...

a sign, with some remains from the elections

view of the castle

The castle, probably the largest in Jordan, from the Crusaders' time, was built in 20 years and finished in 1161, when it became the residence of the lord of Transjordan (the most important fief of the Crusader kingdom, as it was rich in both produce and tax revenues). But long before the crusaders arrived in the region (some 29 centuries ago), the fortress of Kir Heres (or Kir-Haresesth) is mentionned several times in the Bible, like in the Book of Kings (2 King 3:25): "In the end, there was only Kir-hareseth left, which the slingers surrounded and battled." - a descritpion of the Israelites assaulting Moab and taking the fortress. There is also another version of this event: which is the famous Mesha Stele or Moabite Stone. The site being this old came obviously also in the hands of the Nabateans (the ones from Petra). There is one small remain from the 2nd century AD.

Nabataean Relief

It is the bust of a man - unfortunately he has lost his head, but it has been identified as a funerary monument of a Nabataean cavalryman. 

View towards the Dead Sea and Israel

View South towards the Lower Court

The views are spectacular. It is said that on a clear day you can see as far as the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem. 

There is a small museum presenting findings from Karak and the Moab region.

Entrance to the Museum (lower court)

There is a small leaflet availbale at the visitor's center. It is well made with lots of information. The trouble is only that it is not that easy to know exactly where you are in the castle, so it is good to have the leaflet at all times and follow the small plan. A guide kind of just took us along (we paid him 2jd) and he showed us some of the things. It is also possible to rent audio equipment for 5jd. Depending on how much you want to know about the site. As usual I feel that I don't know enough, so when my parents come next year I'll probably go back for a second round.

The castle is built in 2 levels (upper court and lower court), as can be seen clearly on the pictures beneath. There are 2 main periods: the Crusaders, late 12 century and the Mamluk, 13th to 15th century. 

Crusader Galleries

Upper court - inside view of the Crusader Gate 

You can walk around completely freely in the castle. There are a few signs along the way, but there are places where we wouldn't have gone without the guide, like the prison or the dormitories. The entry to the castle is 1JD for tourists and 150fils for residents. It is not a stroller friendly site, there are steps everywhere. Bibs enjoyed walking around, picking up stones and being carried a little bit as well, when down in the prison cells. There are no lights whatsoever in the underground vaults, only small openings here and there in the ceiling or the walls so the guide was walking around with a flash-light.

The castle is a must visit in Jordan. Then there is also the city of Karak. It used to be completely fortified and there are still towers and hidden entrances to the castle around the city. There are plenty places to eat and drink around the castle should it be lunch time.

Water - Blog Action Day 2010

A few months ago, there was a series of articles in the Jordan Times concerning water problems in Jordan. I started a post that unfortunately I never finished. Today is Blog Action Day - an event held every 15th October - and this year's topic is water. Today is time for me to finish my post.

Jordan is the 4th most water deprived country in the world. I was actually very surprised to learn that. Obviously I knew it was bad but I didn't think it was that bad. The water distribution per capita in Jordan is 150 cubic metres. The international poverty line is of 1'000 cubic metres per capita. So as you can see we have a huge problem in Jordan.

One of the main sources of Amman's drinking water come from the wells in the south of the capital, and in June there were some serious cases of water theft. People have being pumping 100s of cubic meter per day over the last 6 months. The water is then used to irrigate farms, greenhouses (a greenhouse needs 800 cm/day and the thief in question had 40 of them) and of course filling swimming pools. The water company estimates that 7% of the capital's water is lost due to theft. In the whole of Amman, 700 violations are recorded monthly!
But then there are things I don't understand, and as for many things the Jordanian people need to be educated - well for those who have water because I am sure that in other areas of Amman you don't see what I see everyday:  misuse of water. Every morning when I walk with Bibs I see some example of how much people don't care, the water is there no? So why not wash the pavement in front of the buildings? It's so useful isn't it? the sand will only be back in a couple of minutes! or the immaculate green grass, or the really lush gardens with beautiful flowers, even in August when it is 45 degrees outside and the sun is burning, or the burst water pipes you see here or there.

I have always been very careful with the use of water. I come from a "non-bathtub" family haha - my mum got rid of them as soon as we moved into our house in Callas, France. When I was kid, we could go for weeks during the summer without water for most of the hours of the day. Of course today the problems don't exist anymore (the region is now linked up to a water canal), but during the summer it is still forbidden to fill swimming pools or to water gardens. Small things can make a big difference: stop the running water when brushing the teeth/washing hands, keep the water from the sink (when washing vegetables for example) to water the plants, forget the baths obviously and make the shower short. Here is a link for water preservation tips.

My other Ramadan discoveries...

Well, well everything comes to an end and we are nearly there: the end of Ramadan. So what have I discovered? Well not much. I think what surprises me the most is that I haven't really felt it was Ramadan. Of course there are small things here and there - but in my daily life, there hasn't been anything that really stuck out. I don't know why I expected it to be so different... that's the way it is when you discover a new culture, isn't it? Surprises.

For one thing, I am happy that it is coming to an end: the traffic has become horrendous. I have the impression that people are even more aggressive than usual. People are just doing dummer and dummer things.

Check that out... one way street? no! they just can't be bothered waiting, even though the traffic is not moving on the other road either. I usually see smaller versions of this, but there were 4 lanes created today! - good that nobody wanted to go in the other direction.
One of the things that I have noticed is the number of poor people whom have been in West Amman during Ramadan. The rest of the year there aren't really any poor on the streets, begging for food or money - but during the Holly month it has been much more noticeable. I guess they are coming here because of the more charitable spirit there is during this period.

Something I knew but that I just didn't think to do anything about: stock up on some wine! I will remember next year. I have lived with gin and tonic for the past month. Not the worse that could happen, but let's be honest it has its limitations and doesn't go that well with food. And I who could finally enjoy a small glass of wine since I have stopped breastfeeding. Yep all liquor stores are completely shut - the one in Cozmo is even hidden behind shelves.

Usually kids have been playing during the night outside, but this morning I saw them running around and playing football at 5:45 when Bibs got me out of bed.

To some more serious stuff. All days during Ramadan are Holy and out of all days during this month (and the rest of the year) yesterday was the holiest of all. It was Laylat Al Qadr (the Night of Power): the revelation of the Koran to the Prophet Mohammed - it is celebrated on the eve of the 27th day of Ramadan. Well, it could be any odd night in the last ten days of Ramadan - but the 27th id even more likely than the other dates - I think have understood that correctly. So there are even more prayers on this night and the prayers are for the forgiveness of sins.

And then comes Eid Al Fatr, the Festival of Fast-breaking: it is probably Thursday - it depends again of the sighting of the crescent moon, like the beginning of Ramadan. So what happens? Well, there are 3 days of celebration and these are public holidays. Apart from that I don't really know, I have to discover... alone because ohh Bobs is working, as usual. You gotta love this Hotel business.

Tomorrow we are going for Iftar - finally, Bobs had promised to take me (he couldn't really wait any longer!!), so I'll bring back some pictures and a story about that...

In the Newz: Sri Lankan Maids and cyber crime

A month ago Sri Lanka banned domestic helpers to be sent to Jordan because of salary problems. Several Sri Lankan maids had contacted their embassy because they were not paid their salary in full, they are here through an agency. In Jordan, you can mainly find maids from the Philippines or Sri Lanka. Filipinos are usually paid more. So the contracts for the Sri Lankan maids - and here we talk live-in maids - stipulate a salary of $200/month, ouch not an awful lot. I wouldn't be surprised if most of them were working 7 days a week from dawn to late night. Some would argue that they are better here, at least they can eat, have a sheltered place to sleep blabla bla. Yes, I agree there is a reason why they are here and not at home in Sri Lanka - but I think their conditions are a little worse than what they expected when they arrived here. I am writing like everybody treat their maids badly and that is of course NOT the case... However, there must be a reason why Sri Lanka put the ban in place to start with. So the article says that the domestic helpers were only paid $150/month (that's less that I pay my housekeeper who comes 4 mornings in the week). I'd be more than happy if they can sort this out and if the maids get their salary... but here comes the cherry on the cake: these recruitment agencies have of course lost money in the process so they are urging the government to speed up things so that they can start recruitment from other countries, like Ethiopia.Why? because it is becoming more expensive to recruit in Sri Lanka (or other countries like Indonesia or the Philippines). So what's the idea, pay the Ethiopian girls $100?
I think this is really one of the cultural differences I trouble the most with. When we rented our apartment, the owner showed us around and went in to a small room behind the kitchen and went "and this is for the maid". That room is 2x2m - yes there is also a shower and a toilet and a lock on the door. I just smiled nicely. I know for some it's normal, but not for me. You can read the full story form the Jordan Times here.

The second and more controversial subject in the papers is the Information Systems Crime Law 2010 which has been recently introduced and has come under great fire. Several articles can be found, including: cyber crimes law helps electronic media, where Marwan Juma, the Minister of Information and Communications Technology explains that the law is there to protect everyone and speaks primarily about cyber crimes such hacking and data interception. He also says that "The law penalises with a fine anyone who disseminates data or information, via the Internet or any information system, that involves defamation, contempt or slander of any person". Finally he talks about the article 13 (the most controversial) which gives the right to the police to raid "any place suspected of having been used to commit cyber crimes" with permission from the public prosecutor.
There is then another article in the Jordan Times: 'No linkage between cyber crimes law and blocking access to certain sites', and this one explains that the government has started banning access to certain sites because: "one hour wasted per day by each of the 100,000 public sector employees who have Internet access costs the government around JD70 million a year". OK this one I follow! In the private sector all kind of social networks (facebook, myspace...) are often restricted because yes it does cost a lot of money having employees updating their status, ranting about their job, the weather... but news websites?
Then to the more controversial article on AmmonNews.net: Is Jordan the latest enemy of press freedom online? This article argues that the law is very vague - and it would allow the government to interpret the way they want - that it is an attempt to silence the critics and the local news sites. It also underlines the fact that the law is a temporary one and thus many say unconstitutional and " accuse the government of acting as if the state of emergency lifted 20 years ago is still in force. The Jordan Professional Associations Complex said the government "has once again violated the constitution by issuing more temporary laws that are not of an urgent nature, as stipulated in Article 94a of the Jordanian constitution." This articles also says that the police can do the raid mentioned above, without prior authorisation from the public prosecutor.


So the question is: what is defamation, contempt or slander?

Drawing from the International Herald Tribune

Driving in Europe again?!

One of the things I am wondering about, is how on earth am I going to able to drive in Europe again, I mean, respecting all the rules like I used to do! I quite quickly got used to driving here. I admit the car I am driving is not looking as new as when we got it - that must be the driving style - but the thing is, it is so much faster to get into bad habits than to loose those bad habits again... But for my defence, these habits are not because I am a bad driver now (at least I don't hope so) but more because if I don't drive like the Jordanians, well I would still be stuck at the 5th circle trying to make my way home.

You want some exemples? here they are...

Arriving at a roundabout. I should really stop the car and wait for my turn to enter the circle. Of course if it is not busy, that's no issue. However sometimes, this is impossible. You have taxi drivers left, right, honking furiously because I dare stop. Oh! But I can't get into the circle to start with. Why, well because all the cars have actually managed to stop the flow. As soon as there is a tiny gap, you need to hurry and get your car in there. The other day it took me nearly 10 minutes to get through the 5th circle. And seriously, I have learnt to make my way when I drive. Can I ever be courteous again? I don't think that word exists here, at least not when you are at the wheel of a car. I don't think I have ever seen an Ammani say thank you.

I need to turn left up the road, thus cross the opposite lane. There is a car coming. In the beginning I would stop and let the other car pass. Well I have discovered 2 reasons not to stop anymore. The first is that if I stop, the other car stop. Why? I don't know. I guess they are surprised that someone just stops to let them pass. It's true they only have the priority. The second reason is that if you have somebody behind you, well they won't stop if they need to turn left so they force the other car to stop. Can I remember that I must stop to let the other car pass?

A fabulous Ammani - well it is probably a Jordanian speciality: arriving at the light to go straight, it's green yet the cars are not going anywhere. It could be a taxi that has run out of gaz, that is a good probabilty, but no it is not that. You see there are 2 lanes waiting at the red light to turn left, but the red lights are long and so are the lanes to turn. So, to be sure they will get the first green light, well a third lane is suddenly created. Yep, the lane instead of being one to go straight on is transformed to one that is turning left. I thus more honking and furious drivers trying to go straight while that light is green. I don't do this, but it is going to be strange to see drivers somehow respecting lanes again.

And then all the other things respected, but not always: like stop signs - is acknowledged as the car can be slowing down but I have never actually seen a car stop. That reminds me of one of my friends who has learned to drive here. The driving teacher told her that she didn't need to stop if she could see that there was no car. It has got to make you smile! It's true, why bother? why waste time? it's only a stop sign. Or red lights: these are more respected, I only see a couple of cars here and there everyday passing the red light. So not too bad - I am always on the lookout for them! The roundabout is a mess, you need to make a complete tour in it? Well just make a u-turn! Take the roundabout in the wrong direction, it so much easier. And I could go on and on and on....

I guess you got the picture! Driving here is a colourful experience. But like everything you get used to it! Let's see how fast I can get used to drive in the UK and France again... 13 days to go to our holidays  and counting!

"There is more to life than increasing its speed" - Mahatma Gandhi

How true is that? And that's exactly the reason such places as the Hot Springs in Ma'In and The Six Senses Hotel exist. To forget that we live in a world where everything must always go faster and faster. In a world where we don't take the time to truly appreciate all the things we enjoy. It is the second time we visit and are still as impressed by the tranquility of the place. You feel serene as soon as you enter the resort. Despite having brought my walking shoes and my friend's backpack for Bibs I didn't get to do the walks I wanted - time just goes so fast and it's difficult to plan with a baby isn't it? Well is actually mission impossible! But I keep faith, I will succeed before we leave Jordan to get up at the top of these mountains and see what's up there. I have always liked walked around in the mountains, the village where I grew up in France is surrounded. Anyways back to Ma'In. Never the less I have brought back some pictures of this gorgeous place. You can read about our first visit here.

Like most hotels, in order to save money they propose you to not change your sheets, your towels everyday. At this hotel they are very eco minded and I feel they are going the "extra mile" to preserve the environment.

I like this much more than the boring fliers large hotel chains use!

The information board, outside the hotel. All boards used are in wood.
I know that you wouldn't expect to see wooden boards in a business hotel.

Most of the furniture (maybe all the furniture!) in the hotel is in wood.

The Lobby

The Brown Bar

I just can't get enough of the views

That mountain on the right is the one I want to get up on

As last time we had an amazing dinner. They have a Thai chef staying for 18months, so if you crave for some good Thai food you know where to go.

We had a red duck curry, a green chicken curry and sauteed beef.

Because of Bibs, we always have room service. A part from the Thai main courses we also shared some traditional cold mezze. The red curry was definitely the best, but all were really good. 

We enjoyed some really nice massages and of course a swim in the Hot Spring before leaving the next day. I find the road absolutely amazing as well, so here are some pics! 

It is not only rock mountains you see on the road...

I would guess that this was also a spring, unfortunately there is no water running there now

And then... we saw these camels out for a walk!

Notice the Baby Camel in the middle!

Hope you have all enjoyed your week-end. We certainly did!

My sis-in-law is flying back home. tonight. It is going to be strange not to have her around anymore. It was easy when we were in the UK. My sister and her kids just up the road. Now we are all over the place again. Europe, Middle East... Am not nostalgic at all, but it is a strange feeling when you don't really know when is the next time you will see your loved ones!