Visit to Umm Qais

I have been away from my blog for ages, and I am so happy that I can finally sit down and write again! There are always lots of reasons why one can't blog, but my main reason (a part from having visitors for quite some time) is that Bibs kind of took over my laptop when the tv suddenly went funny. The only time during the day I can write is when she quietly sits and watches her favourite program "Peppa Pig". So you got it, TV is working again: Bibs can have her screen and I can have mine.

Have so much to tell as we have done quite a few things in the last month; and I have decided to start with the last thing we did: a visit to Umm Qais.

Umm Qais is located in the North Westerly corner of Jordan, just at the border with Israel and Syria; the site overlooks Lake Tiberias, aka Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights and the Jordan Valley. It was a member of the Decapolis (during the Roman Empire) and was then known as Gadara. The city was then a cultural centre and was home to many poets and philosophers.

I found the site very beautiful, specially because it is so green there. Unfortunately it takes nearly 2 hours to get there from Amman - the drive goes through Irbid, the second largest city in Jordan and that means that you waste a lot of time.

Entrance to the site

It is fairly easy to get to Umm Qais, there are signs the whole way (this is worth mentioning as: 1. it is very rare in Jordan - 2. it is not the case when you need to go back to Amman!). The entrance is free for the residents and tourists need to pay 3JD.

View of the theatre

The theatre was built in the 2nd century AD against the western slope of the Acropolis. It could host around 3000 visitors and is built entirely in basalt. It was destroyed by an earthquake in the 8th century.
There are many things to look at on the site:

The main road in Gadara

The Nymphaeum

Archaeological museum (closed on Tuesday) 

The site is also known for a biblical event: this is thought to be the place where Jesus cast devils into swine, which then drowned in the waters of Lake Tiberias.

View of the Lake Tiberias or Sea of Galilee (and the Nymphaeum)

If you schedule your visit over lunch I have heard that the guesthouse, located just across the road from the entrance should be rather good - not a bad idea before a long drive back. The views are surely stunning. 

Jordan Valley

The other attraction of the area is Al-Himma - therapeutical hot springs located about 10 kilometres north of Umm Qais, they were already in use by the Romans, whom apparently regarded them highly. Today there are both a privately run bath and a public one (with separate timetables for men and women).

As I have already said it is a bit far away, which is unfortunate because I don't think I will go again. It is the kind of place you visit once. Yes, the views are amazing, the biblical reference interesting, but it is just too far from Amman. I wouldn't recommend to go to Jerash and then Umm Qais, I think it is too much to do in one day. One last thing it is not a stroller friendly site!

Here is a link to more pictures.

A visit to the Blue Mosque

View of the Blue Mosque

This week I visited the Mosque of the Martyr King Abdullah bin Al-Hussein, also known as the Blue Mosque because of the beautiful blue dome.

As tourist (non-Muslim), you are not allowed in through the main gate. There is a complete separate entrance, located "underneath" the Mosque. You have big signs so you cannot really miss it. We went through a typical bazaar (also doind charity work) with all kind of Jordanian souvenirs and handcrafts. This is where you pay the entrance fee (2JD - resident or not) and where women can borrow and put on the Abaya (traditional black clothing that women wear over their clothes). Note that this is not optional - as women (I was with other female friends) we needed to put it on. I will also say that it is synthetic and it's very very hot to wear - so I cannot imagine what it is like in the summer. 

 

We went up the stairs and arrive in the Gallery.

Main Entrance to the Mosque

This is an open yeard that has a capacity of 6000 worshippers. The floor is covered with octogonal tiles forming lines that direct worshippers toward the Kiblah (direction of Mecca, towards which Muslims turn in prayer). Engraved as well on the external walls are Quranic Verses.

We first visited the Women's Place of Worship - we were not sure that we were allowed into the Men's, but yes we were. The Women's area is quite small and can house 500 worshippers.

 To the right the Mihrab - niche that turns toward Mecca

We then went to the Mosque's Nave (Men's area). It can host 3000 worshippers and is very impressive. 

I could't take many pictures, because there were men praying, sleeping, sitting and talking and there was also a lecture going on. I didn't want to seem intrusive. You can notice the same kind of patern on the carpet that shows the prayer direction as outside.

Sorry about the quality of some of the pictures, but I was taking without flash (to not disturbe) and with Bibs wanting to run around it wasn't that easy!

When we bought our ticket we were given a very nice booklet that explains all there is to know about the Mosque and its construction (that is where I have taken most of the info from).

The last thing we visited was the Islamic Museum. There are other places to see like the Conference Hall or the Library, but Bibs was a bit fed up and hungry so we had to hurry.

 

 

Can anybody tell me what this is??

 It is a small museum, where there are antics, coins, stone engravings etc. all in relation to Islam.

It is an interesting visit to make, and I believe the only Mosque in Amman that can be visited by non-muslims. As usual I have more things to visit - a trend in Jordan for me - so I'll go back and look out for some more.  I hope I haven't made any mistakes with the translations and meanings - if I have please let me know!

One last thing, opening times: we visited between 12:30 and 2pm, and I know it opens in the morning (8am-11am, if not mistaken) - but I don't know if this changes during the year, as I doubt that one can visit during prayer times. Not really sure of this.

"These things were done in Bethabara beyond the Jordan"...

..."where John was Baptising". (John 1:28).

Last week we visited the Baptism Site of Jesus Christ. "Then Jesus came from Galilee to John at the Jordan to be baptized by him" (Matthew 3:13).

Located about 45min from Amman and just 9km from the Dead Sea is the recognised Baptism site, also known as Al Maghtas in Arabic. It is considered to be one of the 3 holliest Christian sites in the world (the 2 others being the Nativity Church in Bethlehem and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem). I must say that as Christian I found it very special, to think that I walked on the same soil as Jesus, and to see where He got baptised.

As we arrive, we leave the car and pay the 7JD to get access to a shuttle which then takes us for a 10 minute drive down to the site. And as usual, as I come home and start writting my blog I discover that we didn't see everything! I think it is some kind of Jordanian idea of a joke... or maybe it's their way to make sure you are coming back!

This is the map of the site

On the map there is the road the shuttle takes to get to the site. All you see in the right hand corner is what we didn't see as the shuttle doesn't stop there! I will have to ask next time we go there with Bobs - he was working the day I went with my parents and Bibs of course!

And hop in the shuttle and off we go...

On the way to the Site (this is where there are some things we missed...)

View of River Jordan & the Orthodox Church

To get to the different places we are walking on these paths

This is the place where Jesus was baptised by St John

The first building on the right is what remains of a small chapel. The other building shelters the remains of the Basilica as well as 2 other churches which were build from the 5th century.

Remains of the Basilica

This painting represents the baptism of Jesus Christ: "As soon as Jesus was baptized, He went up out of the water. At that moment heaven was opened, and He saw the Spirit of God descending like a dove and lighting on Him". (Matthew 3:16)

We then continued our walk towards the River Jordan. It is the border with Israel.

It is actually possible to get baptised at the site. You just need to take a priest with you! For the moment there is only a Greek Orthodox church on the site, but several other churches are being built.

Some more pictures...

Another trip to Mount Nebo

My parents have just arrived - they were looking very much forward to having a look at this intriguing country, and so far so good they like it! - and yesterday we decided for a little drive to Mount Nebo. Instead of driving through Madaba, we went the other way round, so we left Amman in the direction of the Dead Sea - as usual the driving is a bit of guessing when you don't know the road, but finally we seem to be on the right track. The road towards the Dead Sea is very beautiful and dramatic. I didn't really take any pictures, but will definetely next time Bobs is with us. After driving downhill and more downhill, we finally arrive on some kind of plateau and see a sign "Mount Nebo 500m" - well nearly... actually you have to make a u-turn and drive back in the opposite direction to get to a tiny road that will take you in the direction of the famous mountain. I just love the discovery driving in Jordan!!

So we start the ascension and drive through a very poor area. There are many bedouin camps on the way.

haha! My flag that I bought from the street vendor!

I think it brings much more to the experience to drive this way up to Mount Nebo. It takes much more time than if you are coming from Madaba, but I find that it is really worth it.

Suddenly there are these small areas of olive trees and then the desert continues

A camel who thought it was smart to have a little nap on the road!!

You can see the cross on the top of the mountain

We get out of the car, and waow it is hot, the thermometer in the car is marking 32 degrees. Mimosas have flowered and there are a lot of them.

In front of the monument you see as you walk up is a list of some organisations which have donated to the renovation works and maintenance of the site and one of them is...

 It's the second time I have been up there, and it is really a special feeling to look out over the promised land. Some more pictures...